Remote-Sensing Measurements of Wave Breaking at Two Pacific Northwest Jettied Inlets

Quantification of Two-Dimensional Wave Breaking Dissipation in the Surf Zone from Remote Sensing Data

A method for obtaining two dimensional fields of wave breaking energy dissipation in the surfzone is presented. The method relies on acquiring geometrical parameters of the wave roller from remote sensing data. These parameters are then coupled with a dissipation model to obtain time averaged two dimensional maps, but also the wave breaking energy dissipation on a wave-by-wave basis. Comparison...

Satellite Remote Sensing: Aerosol Measurements

Validation of Shear-Wave Velocity Models of the Pacific Northwest

Four surface-wave tomographic models in the Pacific Northwest and a combined CRUST2.0 and AK135 model are tested and validated systematically. Synthetic Green’s functions calculated with the models using a finite-difference method are compared with empirical Green’s functions at periods of 7–50 s. To ensure highquality signals, empirical Green’s functions are extracted from the ambient noise cr...

Measurements of Shallow Water Breaking Wave Rollers

Large scale laboratory experiments concerning breaking wave propagation over a fixed-bed, barred beach were performed. The primary observations of interest were video intensity time series obtained from a set of high-resolution video cameras in order to study the onset of wave breaking in shallow water and wave roller transformation in the surf zone. The approach is new in the sense that the an...

Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment. The results of these tests are utilized in the context of assessing the potential improvement gained by incorporating wave non-linearity in phase speed based depth inversions. The analysis is...